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Set in Sleeve

Duration

Sewing in set-in sleeves can seem daunting, but with the right techniques, it's a manageable and rewarding process. This tutorial will guide you through two common methods for attaching sleeves to your garment, highlighting their differences and helping you choose the best approach for your project.




Two Common Methods:

  • Method 1: Simultaneous Seam Construction:

  • This method involves sewing the sleeve cap to the bodice and then sewing the bodice side seam and sleeve inseam simultaneously.

  • This method is often used in mass-produced garments or for smaller garments where access to the seams can be limited.

  • Method 2: Sequential Seam Construction:

    • This method involves sewing the bodice seams first, then sewing the sleeve inseam, and finally attaching the sleeve to the bodice.

    • This method generally allows for greater control and a more precise fit.


Key Techniques Covered:

  • Understanding Cap Ease: This tutorial references a separate tutorial on cap ease, which is crucial for a smooth-fitting sleeve. Learn how to distribute the extra fabric in the sleeve cap to avoid puckering and achieve a graceful drape.

  • Notch Alignment: Understand the importance of aligning the notches on the sleeve and bodice for accurate placement and a balanced fit. Properly aligned notches will result in a slight forward slant of the sleeve head, which is essential for a natural and comfortable fit.

  • Fabric Manipulation: Learn how to position and pin your fabric effectively for smooth feeding through the machine.

  • Securing Gathers: Master the "figure-8" method for securing thread tails when easing or gathering fabric.

  • Pressing Techniques: Discover the best pressing methods for shaping the sleeve cap and ensuring a smooth drape.


This tutorial will provide you with the knowledge and skills to:

  • Choose the most appropriate method for your project.

  • Achieve a professional-looking sleeve fit.

  • Avoid common pitfalls like puckering, distortion, and uneven gathers.

  • Gain a deeper understanding of sleeve construction and its impact on garment fit.


Note: This tutorial covers the fundamental techniques for sewing in set-in sleeves. More advanced techniques may be necessary for specific garment styles or fabrics.

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Aga Pogórecka

Gown Designer and bridal seamstress. Owner of Agadesal Co

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Melissa Lennie

Bridal Seamstress. Owner of Sew Creative Bridal

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Candyce Tatroe-Jordan

Embroidery & knitwear expert. Owner of Tajo Designs.

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