Sewing Dictionary | The Sewing Resource

Sewing Dictionary: Common Vocabulary

This dictionary covers common sewing terms, from basic tools to techniques.

Appliqué: A decorative fabric patch sewn onto a larger piece of fabric.
Armscye (Armhole): The opening in a garment where the sleeve is attached.
Assembly: The process of putting garment pieces together.

Backstitch: A strong, short stitch used for seams and embroidery.
Basting: Temporary, loose stitches used to hold fabric in place before final sewing.
Bias: The diagonal grain of fabric, which has more stretch than the lengthwise or crosswise grain.
Bobbin: A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine.
Bodkin: A tool used for threading elastic or ribbon through casings.
Buttonhole: A reinforced opening for a button.

Casing: A folded-over edge of fabric that encloses elastic, a drawstring, or a rod.
Clip: Small cuts made into the seam allowance to allow curves to lie flat.
Crosswise Grain (Weft): The threads that run horizontally across the fabric.

Dart: A stitched fold that shapes a garment, typically used at the bust, waist, or hips.
Drafting: Creating a pattern from measurements.
Drape: The way a fabric hangs.

Ease: A slight fullness added to a seam to allow for shaping.
Edge Stitching: Stitching very close to the edge of a fabric.
Embroidery: Decorative stitching used to embellish fabric.

Facing: A piece of fabric used to finish raw edges, such as necklines or armholes.
Fabric Grain: The direction of the woven or knitted threads in a fabric.
Fat Quarter: A quarter-yard cut of fabric that is wider than a traditional quarter-yard.
Feed Dogs: The small teeth under the needle plate of a sewing machine that move the fabric forward.
Finish: A method of treating raw edges to prevent fraying (e.g., zigzag stitch, serging).
Fly: A type of closure often used on pants, consisting of overlapping fabric pieces.

Gathering: A technique used to create fullness in fabric by creating small, closely spaced pleats.
Grading: Trimming seam allowances to different widths to reduce bulk.
Grainline: The direction of the lengthwise threads in a woven fabric, indicated by a symbol on a pattern.
Gusset: A piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add fullness or strengthen a point.

Hem: A finished edge on a garment, usually at the bottom.
Hand Stitching: Sewing done by hand, without a machine.

Lengthwise Grain (Warp): The threads that run vertically along the length of the fabric.
Lining: A fabric layer sewn inside a garment to provide a finished look or add warmth.

Muslin: An inexpensive, plain woven fabric often used for making test garments (muslins).

Needle: A slender, pointed tool with an eye for threading, used for sewing.
Notch: A small V-shaped cut made in the seam allowance to match corresponding pieces.

Overlock Stitch (Serger Stitch): A stitch that trims and finishes the raw edge of fabric in one step.

Pattern: A template used to cut out garment pieces.
Pin: A slender, pointed piece of metal used to hold fabric together.
Pleat: A folded and pressed or stitched crease in fabric.
Pressing: Lifting and lowering the iron onto the fabric, rather than sliding it.

Quilting: Stitching through layers of fabric, often with batting in between.

Raw Edge: The unfinished edge of a piece of fabric.
Running Stitch: A simple, quick stitch used for gathering or basting.

Seam: The line where two pieces of fabric are joined together.
Seam Allowance: The distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric.
Selvage (Selvedge): The finished edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the lengthwise grain.
Serger: A specialized sewing machine that trims and finishes fabric edges.
Setting a Sleeve: Attaching the sleeve to the armscye.
Stay Stitching: A line of stitching sewn just inside the seam allowance to prevent stretching.
Stitch: A single loop of thread formed by the needle and bobbin.
Straight Stitch: A basic, straight line of stitching.

Topstitching: Visible stitching on the outside of a garment, used for decorative or functional purposes.
Tracing Wheel: A tool used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric.
Trim: To cut away excess fabric, especially seam allowances.

Understitching: Stitching close to the edge of a facing or undercollar to prevent it from rolling out.

Zigzag Stitch: A stitch that forms a zigzag pattern, often used for finishing raw edges or sewing knit fabrics.
Zipper: A fastener consisting of two rows of teeth or coils that interlock.

Welcome to this comprehensive guide on taking accurate body measurements for sewing!

This course is designed to equip you with the skills to measure yourself or your clients precisely, ensuring perfect fit and successful garment creations.

Note that you may not need to take all of these measurements for every project. Choose the ones relevant to your specific design.

Here are some important considerations before we begin:

Clothing: For the most accurate measurements, avoid wearing sports bras. Instead, wear a well-supportive bra with underwire or the specific undergarments you plan to wear with the finished garment. This will ensure the measurements account for the desired support and fit. Tight-fitting garments, like leggings, will help minimize fabric bulk and accurately reflect your body shape.
Landmarks: We'll start by establishing key landmarks on the body using elastic, tape, and stickers. These will guide us throughout the measurement process.
Accuracy: Pay close attention to detail. Ensure the measuring tape is held firmly and level against the body.

Let's begin by marking those landmarks!

Landmarks

To make measurement taking easier you can use the help of elastic, thin strips of tape, and stickers. If you decide to use these, however, keep in mind that the adhesive may not be strong enough, and they may fall off during your measurement session.

Horizontal Lines (to be marked with elastic):
- Upper Bust: Place the elastic band horizontally around the body above the bust.
- Bust: Position the elastic band horizontally around the body at the fullest part of the bust.
- Underbust: Place the elastic band horizontally around the body directly below the bust.
- Waist: Position the elastic band horizontally around the natural waistline, typically the narrowest part of the torso above the navel. You can find this spot by bending your body side to side and positioning the elastic at the creases in your waist.
- High Hip/Stomach: Place the elastic band horizontally around the body at the widest part of the hips or stomach.
- Low Hip/Wide Hip: Place the elastic band horizontally around the body at the widest part of the hips. Make sure to check around the back, as it should also be the widest part of the butt too.

Note: These lines should be parallel to the floor and extend across the back.

Key Points (Stickers):

Back Nape of Neck:
- Have the person being measured gently lower their head.
- Locate the prominent bony bump at the base of the neck where it meets the spine.
- Have them lift their head back to a neutral position.
- Place a sticker directly over this bony landmark.
Back Width Level:
- Find the midpoint between the back nape of neck sticker and the armhole depth level (which we will mark next).
- Place a sticker horizontally across the back at this midpoint.
Armhole Depth Level:
- Place a ruler under the armpit, ensuring it is perfectly level with the floor.
- Mark where the ruler intersects the back with a sticker.
High Shoulder:
- Locate the point where the shoulder meets the neck.
- Place a sticker on this point.
Low Shoulder/Shoulder Tip:
- Have the person being measured raise their arm slightly.
- Locate the prominent bony point at the outermost edge of the shoulder.
- Place a sticker on this point.
Front Nape of Neck:
- Locate the center point at the base of the neck in the front.
- Place a sticker on this point.
Chest Level:
- Locate the midpoint between the upper bust elastic and the front nape of neck sticker.
- Place a sticker horizontally across the chest at this level.
Apex:
- Locate the highest point of the bust on each side.
- Place a sticker on each apex.
- Keep in mind that you can manipulate this placement to appear wider, larger breasted, or narrower, smaller chested.

Design Lines (Tape):

Mark any design lines, such as the neckline or strap positions, with tape.

Notice that the knots of the elastic are located in line with the shirt side seam which will be helpful when measuring half circumferences later.

Neck

Technique:
- Wrap the measuring tape loosely around the base of the neck, ensuring it is level.
- The tape should rest comfortably without feeling too tight or too loose.

Tips:

Avoid pulling the tape too tight, because it can be restricting.
Add a slight amount of ease for comfort. Leave a little room inside by placing a finger between the tape measure to allow for a little bit of room for breathing and comfort.

Common Mistakes:

Measuring too tightly.
Not ensuring the tape is level around the neck.

Shoulder Length

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape on the high shoulder point sticker.
- Extend the tape measure to the low shoulder point sticker.
- Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: Keep the measuring tape close to the shoulder bone for accurate results.

Shoulder Span

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the shoulder tip sticker on one side.
- Extend the tape measure to the shoulder tip sticker on the other side.
- Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape lies flat across the front and follows the natural curve of the shoulders.

Chest

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the crease of one armpit.
- Extend the tape measure across the chest to the crease of the other armpit.
- Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is level and parallel to the floor.

Front Upper Body Vertical

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center front waist.
- Extend the tape measure vertically to the nape of neck.
- Read the measurements at Underbust, Bust, Upperbust, Chest, and Nape of Neck level.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

If you are measuring for a corset with underwire, don't leave a gap between the tape measure and the body at bust level, this is where the underwire of the corset will be.

Apex to Apex

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the apex sticker of one breast.
2. Extend the tape measure horizontally across the chest to the apex sticker of the other breast.
3. Read the measurement on the tape.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is level and parallel to the floor.

Bust Radius

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the apex sticker.
2. Extend the tape measure vertically downwards at a 90-degree angle to the underbust level.
3. Read the measurement on the tape.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

Vertical Bust Diameter

Technique:
Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the underbust level directly below the apex sticker.
Extend the tape measure vertically upwards to the apex of the breast.
Read the measurement on the tape.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

Horizontal Bust Diameter

Technique:
Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the underwire level on the outside of the bust.
Extend the tape measure horizontally across the bust, passing through the apex of the breast, to the underwire level on the other side of the bust.
Read the measurement on the tape.

Underwire

Technique:
- Custom Underwire:
  1. Place the 0 of the ruler at the inner spot where the underwire will start then gently mold it to the shape of the client's breast.
  2. This will create a custom underwire shape for a more comfortable and supportive fit. This underwire is created using Rigiline boning. Curve it by pulling individual wires inside the casing. Note that some Rigiline boning is pre-fused together and can’t be curved.
- Pre-made Underwire:
  1. Select a pre-made underwire size that closely matches the client's breast shape.
  2. Test the underwire against the client's breast to ensure a good fit.
  3. Alternatively, compare the pre-made underwire to the shape of a well-fitting bra that the client already owns.
- Trimming Underwire:
  1. Underwires can be trimmed to fit specific design requirements or to achieve a more customized fit.

Bust Circular around the apex

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the apex sticker of one breast.
- Extend the tape measure towards the armpit at a 45-degree angle.
- Read this measurement (apex to armpit at 45 degrees).
- Rotate the end of the tape measure to a 90-degree angle to the neckline ( if strapless).
- Read this measurement (apex to neckline).
- Rotate the end of the tape measure towards the center front at a 45-degree angle.
- Read this measurement (apex to neckline at 45 degrees).

Tips: Keep the measuring tape close to the body and follow the angles accurately.

Strap Length

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the apex sticker.
2. Extend the tape measure up and over the shoulder, following the natural curve.
3. Continue down the back to the point where the strap will attach to the back neckline of the garment.
4. Read the total strap length measurement.
5. To determine the front and back strap lengths:
  - Visually divide the strap length measurement to identify the point where it crosses the shoulder.
  - The measurement from the apex to this shoulder point is the front strap length.
  - Subtract the front strap length from the total strap length to find the back strap length.

Tips: Keep the measuring tape close to the body and follow the natural curve of the shoulder.

Strap Distance

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at one point along the back neckline where you intend to attach a strap.
2. Extend the tape measure to where the other strap will be attached
3. Read the measurement on the tape.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape lies flat along the back neckline.

Back High Shoulder to Waist

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the high shoulder point sticker.
2. Extend the tape measure vertically downwards to the waistline.
3. Read the measurement on the tape.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

Back Upper Body Vertical and Low Shoulder to Center Waist

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center back waist.
2. Extend the tape measure vertically upwards to the nape of neck sticker.
3. Read the measurements at the armhole depth sticker, the chosen back neckline point, the back width sticker, and the nape of neck sticker.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

Side Upper Body

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the waistline at the side seam.
2. Extend the tape measure vertically upwards to the armhole depth sticker.
3. Read the measurements at the underbust elastic, the bust elastic, and the armhole depth sticker.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical, following the natural curve of the body.

Armhole Circumference

Technique:
- Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the low shoulder sticker.
- Extend the tape measure around the armhole, connecting it back to the 0 point.
- Read the full armhole circumference measurement.
- Read the front armhole measurement at the side seam.
- Subtract the front armhole measurement from the full armhole circumference to get the back armhole measurement.

Tips: Keep the measuring tape close to the body and wrap the tape measure along the front and back arm creases and extending it down to the armhole level.

Torso Circumferences

Technique:
- For each circumference (upper bust, bust, underbust, waist, high hip/stomach, low/full hip):
  - Wrap the measuring tape around the body at the corresponding elastic line.
  - Ensure the tape measure is level and parallel to the floor.
  - Don’t only check it from the front, check it from the side and the back to to make sure it’s all even.
  - Connect the tape measure at the side seam.
  - Read the full circumference measurement.
  - To find the front and back measurements:
    - Note the measurement at the opposite side seam.
    - Subtract the front measurement (measurement at the opposite side seam) from the full circumference to obtain the back measurement.
    - The process for recording circumference measurements is the same, and you only need to take the measurement once and do the math to get the front and back measurements separately
- Waist:
  - If you are making a waist-minimizing garment like a corset, you can gently tighten the measuring tape slightly around the waist for a tighter fit.
  - Important Note: Do not over-tighten the measuring tape at any other circumference level.

Tips:

Ensure the measuring tape is level and parallel to the floor at each level.
Maintain consistent tension on the measuring tape throughout the measurement.

Seated Measurements

Technique:
1. Seat Measurement: Have the person being measured sit down comfortably.
  - Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the side seam waistline.
  - Extend the tape measure vertically downwards to the chair.
  - Read the measurement on the tape.
2. Back Seat Measurement:
  - Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center back waist.
  - Extend the tape measure vertically downwards to the chair.
  - Read the measurement on the tape.

Waist and High Hip/Stomach Circumference (Sitting)

Technique:
1. Waist:
  - Have the person being measured sit down comfortably.
  - Wrap the measuring tape around the waist, ensuring it is level.
  - Read the measurement on the tape.
2. High Hip/Stomach:
  - Have the person being measured sit down comfortably.
  - Wrap the measuring tape around the hips at the high hip/stomach level, ensuring it is level.
  - Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: seated measurements are helpful for creating garments with little or no stretch, as they provide insights into how the garment will fit while seated.

For non-stretch garments, consider adding some ease here
Similar to standing circumference measurements, connect to tape measure at the side seam to get the front and back measurements separately

Crotch Length

Technique:The traditional way to measure crotch length is to
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center front waist.
2. bring it around between the legs.
3. And Extend it to the center back waist.
4. You’ll find the full crotch length measurement at the center back of the waist.
5. Have the person being measured hold the tape measure at the inseam.and show you the front crotch measurement
6. .
7. To calculate the back crotch length: Subtract the front crotch length measurement from the full crotch length measurement.

Tips: Ensure the tape measure follows the natural curve of the body.

Crotch Shape

Get the exact crotch with a flexible ruler,.

Technique:
1. Use a flexible ruler to gently mold it along the center front line of the crotch.
2. Place the 0 of the ruler at the inseam and gently mold the ruler along the center front line of the crotch..
3. Record the measurement at the center front waist. You can mark this spot with an elastic rubber band. Or sticker
4. You can Trace the shape of the ruler on a piece of paper to create a template of the front crotch curve.
5. Repeat the process for the back crotch, molding the ruler along the center back line.
6. Record the measurement at the center back waist and trace the shape of the ruler on a piece of paper to create a template of the back crotch curve.

Tips: This technique helps to create a perfectly fitting crotvh curve for a custom. Pair of pants.

Front Lower Body Vertical

Technique:
- Record lower body Vertical measurements from the waist down to high hip down to the low hip upper knee knee calf ankle
  - Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center front waist.
  - Extend the tape measure vertically downwards to the floor.
  - Read the measurements at the high hip, low hip, upper knee, knee, calf, ankle and floor
  - Read the final measurement at the floor.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical, following the natural curve of the body.

Skirt Length

Technique:
1. Have the client hold the end of the measuring tape.
2. Have the client move the tape measure up and down until they reach the desired skirt length.

Tips: again make sure the tape measure is held vertically and the client is standing upright.

Center Back Waist to Knee

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center back waist.
2. Extend the tape measure downwards, following the natural curve of the buttocks, to the knee.
3. Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: This measurement is particularly important for individuals with fuller hips or buttocks, and it's essential for accurate pattern drafting, especially when creating back skirt princess seams.

Train Length (Optional)

Technique:
1. If your design includes a train with a seam above the knee level:
  - Place a sticker slightly above the knee level on the back of the leg as a reference point.
  - Place the 0 of the measuring tape at this sticker.
  - Extend the tape measure downwards along the back of the leg, imagining where the back of the train would fall.
  - Then determine the desired length of the train.

Tips: This technique ensures consistent train length measurements throughout the design process.

To measure heel height Please, the zero of the tape measure at the floor and bring the tape measure up vertically to where the shoe meets the heel of the foot

Center Back Waist to Floor

To record the back lower body vertical measurements

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the center back waist.
2. Extend the tape measure vertically downwards to the floor following the natural curve of the hips and buttocks
3. You can also record the waist to floor and waist to knee measurement at this stage
4. Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and vertical.

Leg Circumferences

Technique:
1. Quad: Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the thigh.
2. Upper Knee: Wrap the measuring tape around the upper part of the knee.
  - Note: This measurement is crucial as it may be the widest part of the leg.
3. Knee:
  - Have the person being measured bend their knee slightly.
  - Wrap the measuring tape around the knee at its widest point.
4. Calf: Wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the calf.
5. Read the measurements at each level.

Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is straight and parallel to the floor at each level.

Foot Circumference

Technique:
1. Have the person being measured point their toe.
2. Wrap the measuring tape around the foot at the widest part of the heel.
3. Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips: This measurement is crucial for accurate fitting of tapered pants.

Ankle Circumference

Technique:
1. Wrap the measuring tape around the ankle.
2. Read the measurement on the tape.

Tips:

You can add a slight amount of ease for movement here by placing your finger between the ankle and tape measure similar to the neck and wrist measurements.

Arm Vertical

Technique:
1. Place the 0 of the measuring tape at the low shoulder point sticker.
2. Extend the tape measure down the arm to the wrist.
3. Read the measurements at the sleeve cap height (same level as armhole depth), bicep, upper elbow (which is sometimes the fullest part of the arm), elbow (with the arm bent at a 90-degree angle), and wrist.
4. Note: Leave a slight amount of ease at the wrist, similar to the neck measurement.
5. Measure the desired sleeve length from the low shoulder point to the desired length.
6. If your sleeve length extends beyond the wrist. Also measure it with the elbow bent.
Tips: Keep the measuring tape close to the arm and straight.

Arm Circumferences

Technique:
1. At each of the vertical measurement levels (sleeve cap height, bicep, upper elbow, elbow, and wrist, desired sleeve length), wrap the measuring tape around the arm horizontally.
2. Read the measurement at each level.
3. Note:
  - The sleeve cap height measurement should be taken at the same level as the armhole depth landmark.
  - Note that the upper elbow may be the widest part of the arm.
4. For hand width:
  - Do not measure the hand width with the fingers relaxed.
  - Measure the hand width with all fingertips touching.
  - The measurement with the fingers touching is the correct measurement for accurate sleeve fitting.
Tips: Ensure the measuring tape is level and parallel to the floor at each level.